ATV Time

[cd]

Please read: Due to seeing alot of common topics on Atvtime I am going to start doing a series of how-to's and explainations on some ATV stuff. If you have any questions with these please ask in this thread and not a PM as hopefully your questions will answer someone elses. If you do not know what your doing or are not mechically inclined do not attempt. I am not responsible for your errors and theres no substitute for a good ATV mechanic that knows Polaris. This only applies to the last generation of Demand Drive Hubs, older versions are different. Now we begin.


First, jack up and support the front of your atv and support in a way it won't fall. Remove the wheel in question. Remove the brake caliper. Now remove the 3 screws holding on the hubcap using a T25 Torx and using a screwdriver gently pry the hubcap out. See following photo.



Remove cotter pin and nut on axle.

Pull the hub straight off being sure to catch all of the oil and bearings that come out.

Wash all the parts in a parts washer or with brake clean and dry.

Basic parts of the hub clutch are:
1.Hub
2.Bearings
3. Front hub clutch (roller cage, rollers, garter spring)
4.Armature Plate

Refer to a parts diagram to clarify as I can't get one in the thread. Go to worldofpowersports.com for parts diagrams.

Armature Plate Pictured below



Notice how there are wear marks on the plate, there is a shiny mark on the inside and outside of the plate, you should really only have a wear mark on the outer edge, not the inside as this one is shown, they may still work this way but its not optimum

(UPDATE)

Something I forgot to mention earlier and consider to be of pertinent information is:

After awhile the armature plate will gain slight magnetism from being around a magnet so much, this will cause your 4X4 to be very erratic. You really can't do harm to put new armature plates in when you service these hubs. Although if you would like to try and use what you have hold your armature plate to a piece of steel and see if you can feel any magnetism at all, it will be minor, if you can you either need new ones or you can try a suitable de-magnetiser.



Next is the rollers and cage



You should have this off the axle and on your workbench, feel the rollers by gently rocking them to make sure they do not bind, and turn the hex inside the aluminum cage to make sure they snap back into place, do not remove the garter spring as you can damage it if your not very careful, Unless you see that it is stretched and needs replacing do not remove it, If you must put a new one on be careful, Polaris makes a tool to instal the spring but you don't absolutely need it, carefully and methodically install the new one being sure to stretch it evenly and no more than you have to.

If all this is ok, set aside.

Now you need to measure the pole clearance.



You will need a straightedge and feeler gauge for this step. Note in the above photo there are orange and green arrows. The straightedge should sit flat where the orange arrows point. Using the feeler gauges measure the clearance where the green arrows point, this should measure 0-0.001" a few thousands extra normally doesn't hurt but not enough will cause wear or will not function right.

Ok I will try to finish this tomorrow night, I have a headache and alot more stuff to do and its already late. Please add comments and questions.
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My Shop:

[cd]

Now if the measurements you took in the last step were correct, ignore this, if they were incorrect this is how you fix that. Pictured below you can see the hubstrut, the red line clarifies the rear of the seal sleeve and I believe you can figure out what the rest of it consists of, this shiny sleeve is press fit over the magnet inside of it. This sleeve can be moved in and out by gently tapping. You will need a brass hammer peferrably and a nice flat faced punch. If the clearance you measured is too much gently tap in on the outer ring (seal surface) until you reach your desired clearance, work your way around the sleeve so that it doesn't get crooked. Now if you need to increase the clearance its the same principle just reversed. In the pic you see orange arrows, using the punch and hammer you can get behind the sleeve and gently tap it towards you, again work your way around in small steps. In the end you want the clearance to be very close the whole way around the sleeve so that you know it is on as straight as possible.



This next photo basically shows 2 things, the red outline just clarifies the seal surface, sleeve, ring, what have you. The other is the blue line which highlights the magnet. Testing the magnet, Turn the ignition on your ATV to on with the engine off, have in the shifter in a foward gear and AWD on, using a ferrous object, (wrench, bolt, etc.) hold it up to the magnet (blue line) and feel for magnetism, its not a really strong pull so don't expect a wrench to stick to it. If your object doesn't attract to the magnet either your magnet is burnt or you have a wiring problem on the ATV, the wiring is a whole other thing so if this thread gets there it gets there.



more to come
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My Shop:

[cd]

Ok time for an update, I have a few minutes so here we go...

When you tore the hub apart you ended up with 3 or 4 bearings depending how far you took it apart. Visually the main difference is the hole size in the bearing, 2 large, 2 small.

The two large bearings go on first (when I say a bearing is pointing a certain direction I mean for you to refer to their natural taper as an arrow, imagine) starting at the cv joint 1 bearing slides on pointing out, then the axle gets slid through the hubstrut and the next large bearing goes on pointing in towards the atv.

Once you have those bearings squared away you need to install the clutch itself. Refer to picture below or necessary parts diagrams, you can get parts diagrams at www.worldofpowersports.com



You can see by the picture how the armature plate gets put in along with one of the small bearings, don't forget the spacer that goes behind the roller cage. Now at this point I normally grip the axle stub remaining and pull out on it while pushing in on the clutch body in order to snug up the assembly so nothing falls down. Take note how the armature plate is aligned with the roller cage and where the three tabs on it lay in the roller
cage.





Now on the rear of the hub you will see a large diameter seal, put a thin coat of oil on the sealing surface, slide the hub onto the clutch/axle stub protruding. Taking the remaining bearing slide it onto the axle stub and into the hub until it seats fairly snug. Put washer removed earlier onto axle stub, followed by the castle nut. Tighten nut to 165 In. Lb. Spin the hub a few revolutions and loosen the nut to finger tight. Now tighten nut to 124 In. Lb. to a maximum of 144 In. Lb. in order for a hole to line up to install the cotter pin (I suggest using a new cotter pin) Inspect hubcap and o-ring for cracks/tears and replace as necessary, Apply a little grease to the o-ring and slide the hubcap back into the hub, tighten 3 torx headed screws, be cautious here and stop when you see the plastic squish



Ok now I need to go find my camera to get the rest of the pics off of it.
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My Shop:

[cd]

If you haven't already, remove the plug shown in the photo with an allen wrench.




This is the oil you use, there are acceptable substitutes but this is the only thing I will condone.



Basically you want to fill the hub with fluid until oil is just starting to run out with the fill hole when it is at the 4 or 8 o'clock position. How you do this is your call, I myself put the hole at 12 o'clock and fill then turn the hub to the 4 or 8 and let any excess drain off, however I suggest you fill the hub a little high, wait 10 minutes then check it as that gives the oil time to run to the back. If you need to add, add, if its too high let some drain off.

Reinstall Fill Plug and tire/wheel. Lower from jackstand and go try it out.


So thats basically it, I didn't show any seal removal or installation as that generally doesn't need done unless they are leaking and can be intimidating to some so I chose to to show it.

**Input Please**

If someone has another common question they would like me to write a tutorial on I am open to suggestions.

If this helped you, tell me I like to know if this is worth my time.

If you have a question ask.
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My Shop:

[blasterjen]

Deffinatly makes understanding how to do it easier. Nice job!
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Ming tien jian!
Just because I'm a girl doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing!
Lucinda Lin 12/26/04

[500HO_Jay]

I just wanted to add that i used this guide, and it was excellent. I had no problem, and the tests worked out.
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2000 Polaris Sportsman 500

[cd]

Great!
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My Shop:

[polarisman1977]

I really think thats great that you would take the time and put forth the effort of showing people how to fix things on those Polaris'. I myself have an 06 800 and i've had to fix a few things but simple stuff. Not had to fool with the hubs....yet. But i'm mechanically inclined so it shouldnt be hard. Keep doing these tutorials though....I really enjoyed looking and reading this one. You can also use those shop manuals but they don't give you the detail that you sometimes need to complete a project. Thanks for the help because I printed all of this off so I can use it in the future.

[cd]

your welcome, just keep in mind your 800 has different hubs than these, those units hold up pretty well though, unless your being super agressive or big tires.
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My Shop:

[polarisman1977]

I don't really ride hard. I go through some mud and climb some steep stuff but im not abusive or anything. Plus I keep a good check on all the maintainance stuff like oil, brakes, coolant, bearings, etc. I think as long as you take care of your machine, no matter what it is, it'll last.
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2003 Polaris Predator 500...WB pipe, K&N, DynoJet, KendaKlaw XCR'S front and rear, ITP Wheels

2006 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI...Warn 2500lb winch, front and rear Polaris tubular bumpers...UNI filter...some Quadovator mods.

[nooch]

I would like to thank you for posting this step by step on the hub repair on th Polaris. I just bought an 01' Scrambler 500 4x4 off craigslist and when I brought it home it starting pulling to one side very hard. The guiy replaced a cv joint on one side and never put hub oil in it( so I found out). I used your instrucions with ease and cleaned everything up. Works great for now. I'm sure I need to replace some stuff eventually though. Thanks again!
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2001 Polaris Scrambler 500 4X4
1986 Thundercraft Malibu Open Bow
1991 Yamaha wr650 Waverunner

[cd]

welcome to atvtime!
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My Shop:

[03HOSE]

Great tutorial! How about one on CV joint repair?

[cd]

missed this last reply. next time I get some axles apart I'll do on on CV's
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My Shop:

[hemiviper]

I was wondering if it is possible to change the CV joint boot without ripping the hub apart on a 2002 Polaris Scrambler 4X4. I have to disconnect at the Yoke next to the front gearbox to replace the roll pin. Thanks for any suggestons.